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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.